Traveling in a Confused World
Having made Merida our base in Yucatan, for the first few weeks we limited ourselves to short day trips to Chichen Itza, Uxmal and Kabah. But it was time to venture farther east – where the white sands and turquoise waters of the Caribbean sea are the spectacular setting for an ancient Mayan city of Tulum. So Saturday morning we rented a car and headed to Quintana Roo for a long weekend on the Caribbean. Continue reading “On The Road in Yucatan: Colonial Valladolid and Mayan Coba”
Kabah is a small Mayan site, lying 22 km south of Uxmal. But what it lacks in size, it makes up in sheer eeriness. Empty of visitors, the silence isn’t broken by the large iguanas, embodying the solemn atmosphere of the place. We came here for a short visit, after spending half a day in Uxmal, and were glad we did. Continue reading “Kabah, A Maya City Where Iguanas Outnumber Visitors”
As everyone else visiting Yucatan, Chichen Itza was our first encounter with Mayan civilization. Advertising works – if something is recognized as a New World Wonder, you are going to go there first, no matter what. But while Chichen Itza may be the most famous Mayan site, the less-known Uxmal, in my view, is even more breathtaking. Continue reading “Uxmal, The Ancient Maya City You Have To See to Believe”
Having stayed in Merida for more than a month, we had plenty of time to explore the city. Beyond just taking a quick tour of the historic center, visitors often rush off to see the pyramids, which is understandable. But if you have more than a day or two in the city, check out these less-known spots, whose discovery was a pleasant surprise for us.
For the first time in my life I don’t have a physical home to return to. All the stuff that I ever owned is either in my suitcase, at my parents house or sold and given away. For 6 months now I don’t pay any monthly bills. I don’t have long-term rental contracts. I don’t receive spam calls – an unexpected benefit of changing the sim card every now and then. Continue reading “The Unexpected Side Effects of Traveling Slow”
After 2 months in Guadalajara, coming to Mérida was almost like visiting another country. Different people, different food, in some places even signs in a different language. On our way from the airport, the driver was telling me that his father is Maya while his mother is a mestizo. “Did your father speak Maya with you?”, I asked him. “No, my mother wouldn’t let him speak Maya in the house”. Continue reading “Merida, The Colonial Capital in the Land of the Maya”
The biggest lake in Mexico, Lake Chapala and its coastal towns attract many expats due to its comfortable climate. But what it offers travelers isn’t immediately obvious. So one weekend we took a car from Guadalajara and drove south to discover it ourselves. Continue reading “Lake Chapala, Where Expats, Pelicans and the Dead Are Neighbours”
That morning a car was taking us through the streets of Tonala, a south-eastern suburb of Guadalajara. World away from the elegant craft markets of Tonala centro, we were passing through some of the poorest neighbourhoods in Guadalajara. Continue reading “How a Charity from Kansas Helps the Children of Guadalajara Break the Poverty Cycle”
Guachimontones is probably one of the most interesting archeological sites in Jalisco, Mexico. One hour of driving from Guadalajara is all it takes to see the only circular-stepped pyramids in Mesoamerica and the world (update: Cuicuilco in Mexico City could also be considered circular pyramids). Even though there are buses to the site from Guadalajara, we preferred the convenience of Uber (the cost was around $20). Upon arrival we took a guide, and started the climb up the hill. Continue reading “Guachimontones – World’s Only Circular Pyramids Near Guadalajara”
It’s been 3 months since we landed in Mexico. During this time, from a complete unknown Mexico became a place whose faces, sights and smells we now recognize. We are only beginning to discover the rich cultural tapestry of this vast nation, the biggest Spanish-speaking country in the world. But some insights are already ripe enough to share. Vamos! Continue reading “4 Things I Learned After 3 Months in Mexico”
Anyone spending more than a few days in Guadalajara, will sooner or later end up in Tequila. A small town 1.5 hours from Guadalajara, it’s the birthplace of Mexico’s national drink. Actually, Tequila can only be called Tequila if it is produced in the state of Jalisco, in or around the town of Tequila. Otherwise, it’s just a agave spirit. In our first weekend in the city, we boarded the express Jose Cuervo train and headed to Tequila. Continue reading “Tequila, a Small Town with a Big Name”
We came to Guadalajara by chance. Without knowing anything about Mexico, we were attracted by its manageable size (compared to that of Mexico City), a reputation of safety and cheap plane tickets. A composite of 3 cities – Guadalajara proper, Zapopan and Tlaquepaque, it’s a 4 million people urbanity, the second largest in Mexico. We spent here two months exploring the metropolitan without rushing. Our first encounter with Mexico, in Guadalajara I tried my first Taco de pastor, our 3-year-old beat his first piñata. And we made our first Mexican friends. Open, courteous and humble, mexicans don’t need a lot of time to win you over. Continue reading “6 Faces of Guadalajara – Discovering Mexico Overlooked By Tourists”
After spending the first day on the Pacific in Puerto Vallarta, we drove the next day south along the coast, and soon arrived to Boca de Tomatlan. A small fishing village resting on jungle-covered mountain slopes, it’s as far from your idea of typical Mexico as it gets. Continue reading “Yelapa, Where There Are No ATMs, No Police and No Worry”
Speeding on the toll highway from Guadalajara westward to the coast of the Pacific, amidst fields of agave cactuses and withered corn, I couldn’t escape the strangeness of it all. How did we get here? A year ago, our routine life in Israel didn’t hint to any of this. Normal office job, a child, parents and friends were our world. Amidst some vague ideas about living and working abroad, nothing hinted that we’ll be studying spanish, and planning to live in Mexico for half a year. This conception just didn’t exist in our minds. Continue reading “Puerto Vallarta, Where We Find Ourselves in Tropical Mexico”
