As we stepped out of the plane and into the Tbilisi airport, one of the first things we noticed is the surprising city slogan of Tbilisi. It certainly made us smile, but as we were making our way through Georgia, meeting it’s people and experiencing it’s culture firsthand, we learned that it’s more than just a cute marketing slogan.
A cheap 30-minute bus ride from the airport to the city center (just 0.5 lari which is roughly $0.3) revealed a city in love with statues and monuments.
Finding our hostel wasn’t easy – even taxi drivers didn’t know where Kahabidze street was. Seeing we were lost, a local man called city information center and guided us to the correct direction. Our hostel, spartan but cheap was on a quiet street, 2 minutes walk from Tbilisi’s central Rustaveli avenue.
Unassuming entrance
Stalinist apartment with high ceiling and old parquet flooring was large enough but too dusty for my allergic nose
Despite the look of it, hot water was usually reliable
View from the hostel
That evening we took a taxi to the old town to meet with George – a friend of a friend who invited us to an off-street cafe where him and his friends hang-out. Our first meeting with Georgian hospitality was beyond our expectations: George and his friends showered us with warmth, attention, toasts and drinks. Turning my head I suddenly noticed inscriptions in Hebrew – by chance the cafe was just next door to a jewish synagogue. As if it was another way to make us feel home.
In a taxi going rushing through Tbilisi old town
Meeting with George and his friends
Synagogue
We dedicated the next day to see Tbilisi’s highlights. Going down from Rustaveli avenue towards Freedom square (formerly Lenin square) we could sense the city’s bubbling energy.
Just 2 minutes from our hostel, Mcdonald’s grand building neighbours with Stalinist academy of science building
Construction work is everywhere
Opera house
Older couple
Soviet occupation exhibition
St. George monument on Freedom square
Old town on the left bank of river Mtkvari with it’s mix of churches, busy streets and monuments is a happy mishmash.
Georgian Orthodox “Sioni” cathedral attracts believers and beggars
Women believers gathering near the church
The traffic-busy Gorgasali square used to be the town center. Narikala fortress is up on the hill
Mother Georgia monument looking at the city from above
Scary construction practices
The right bank of Mtkvari has changed quite a bit in recent years during Saakashvili reign. Adding to city’s colourful palette we found it very appealing.
Not only visually appealing, the bridge also provides literally a breathe of fresh air in a heavily polluted city
Construction of a new theatre. Polls show only 20% of Tbilisi approves it’s unique architecture
The right bank is being developed as a getaway from the noisy old town
View on the new presidential palace
Shabby buildings stand just meters away from the presidential palace, as if to remind the president of his duty
The gorgeous Tsminda Sameba church is a stark symbol of the post-soviet independence.
Tsminda Sameba (“holy trinity”) cathedral
The man who worked on the golden dome was warned by a priest that his spirit is in danger. Weeks later he killed his entire family. The man was George’s neighbour
As we were making our way from the church downhill, the patriarch arrived
Stopping for a quick bite
Khachapuri – a cheese filled bread (remotely similar to pizza) and tarhun – tarragon-flavoured limonade drink
Churchkhela – traditional Georgian candies containing nuts dipped in thickened grape juice
The sour but refreshing alucha is an unripened “almost-plum”
The next day was raining heavily, but we still managed to explore Vake, Tbilisi’s modern city center.
Vake park
Climbing park’s high stairs reveals a view on the Vake neighborhood
Empty on this rainy day, the park was perfectly quiet and serene
15 minutes on a taxi got us to Kus Tba (“turtle lake”) – local’s favorite place to escape city’s pollution
Political street art is seen often in Tbilisi:
“Pink Stalin” is protest against new prime minister Ivanishvili’s intent to restore Stalin monuments in Georgia
Rhetorical question addressed to the pro-western president Saakashvili
Tbilisi markets are teeming with opportunities:
The best place in Tbilisi for shoe soles shopping
Live chickens can be purchased in this market
Flea market is the place to find everything from drinking horns to Soviet memorabilia
Next morning we packed and escaped for 4 days to the magnificent Kazbeg mountains. But we returned to Tbilisi 3 weeks later, just before leaving Georgia, and we had one last stop to make:
Built in 1975, this unique building was Soviet Georgia’s ministry of transportation hq. It’s surreal architecture stands in stark opposition to what we expect of Soviet buildings.
Today it hosts Bank of Georgia hq and it’s interior is sadly closed to the general public